Garment construction



Sept. 4, 1928.

Filed April 25, 1927 INVENTOR ZasZuck Patented Sept. 4, 1928.

PATENT OFFICE.

NICHOLAS ZUCK, OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK.

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION.

Application filed. April 23, 1927. Serial No. 186,065.

This invention relates to an improved construction for garments, and has for its principal object to provide a better garment, which will hold its shape longer and requires less pressing than the garments heretofore known.

Another object of the invention is to reduce the number of parts of a garment, by making one part perform the function. of two or more parts in the prior constructions.

A further object is to simplify the construction of garments, thus enabling them to be made easier and more economically.

Still another object is to improve the appearance of garments, and also to effect further economies by using the same material as a lining throughout the coat, vest and trousers.

An additional object is to prevent wrinkling of garments by constructing the linings, pockets, and other parts of a stiffening fabric.

With these and other ends in view,'the invention comprises the structure. and combination of parts which will appear more clearly from the following description when read inconjunction with the accompanying drawings, the novel features being pointed out in the 'claiinsfollovving the description.

In the drawings:

Figure l is an elevation ofa coat, illustrating one possible embodiment of my invention;

Figure 2 is an elevation of a coat-front before it is attached to a coat, looking at the side which isplac'ednext to the, fa nic of the coat;

' Figure 3 is a section through a coat and coat-front, taken approximately on the line 33 of Figure l;

Figure 4 is an elevation of a pair of trousers, with parts broken away to show the interior construction, and

Figure 5 is an elevation of a part of a vest, looking at the inside thereof.

As is well known in the art, coats sometimes consist merely of the coat fabric and a lining, but more often a so-called coatfront is employed between the coat fabric and the lining, which coat-front usually contains a layer of some material such as canvas.

One aspect of my invention consists in providing a single layer of fabric to take the place of both the lining and the canvas unit, the cost of such single piece of fabric being much less than the combined cost of the lining and canvas heretofore employed. This single layer of fabric is of stiffening material, preferably containing animal hair, which will not only prevent the lining from wrinkling, but will also aid greatly in keeping the coat fabric in a smooth condition.

This result may be achieved in a number of ways. As one possible embodiment of my invention, I have illustrated in Figures 1, 2 and 3 a coat comprising an outer coat fabric or body portion 11. On the inner side of this coat fabric is placed a coat-front. which may be built up of a number of pieces, usually attached to each other before they are placed in the coat as a unit. The coat-front may consist of a pad 12 of felt or similar material, a layer ofhair-cloth 13, and a fabric 14, united by stitching or any other suitable means. Heretofore this fabric 14 has consisted of apiece of canvas, 7

which has been placed next to the coat fabric, the haircloth and the padding being on the opposite side of the canvas from the coat fabrlc, these parts being concealed by the heretofore conventional lining. I reverse the position of these materials, placing the padding next to the coat fabric and the fabric 14 farthest away from the coat fabric, as shown in cross section in Figure 3. Thus the padding 12 and the hair-cloth 12' will be completely hidden from view by the layer of fabric 14;.

In place of canvas or like material, I use for the fabric 14 some material possess'ng resiliency and relative stiffness as compared with canvas and conventional lining materlals heretofore used in coats,"and preferably a material having a neat and attractive appearance. This fabric may be all or part wool or mohair, or may contain animal ha r such as goats hair, or may be of any other form'having a degree of stiffness greater than of the material-from which coat linings are ordinarily made.

Since the fabric 14 completely covers the padding 12 and the hair-cloth l3, and since it is of neatand finished appearance, it serves as the lining of the coat, obviating the necessity of the usual lining fabric which covers the coat-front. Thus the fabric 14 performs a double function, serving as a lining and also as astifl'ening means and this enables the elimination and saving of cost of one of the layers of fabric ordinarily used heretofore.

Preferably the same kind of stiffening fabric which I employ at 14 is used also at 15 across the back of the coat, and I construct the pockets and sleeve linings from the same material. This greatly reduces the tendency of the pockets to wrinkle or pucker up, and thus the coat is kept smoother and will consequently wear longer.

The same stiffening fabric is preferably used for the waist-band 16 of the trousers, for the trousers pockets 17, for the fly lining, crotch pieces and all other inside parts of the trousers. This aids greatly in keeping the trousers in proper shape, preventing wrinkling, especially around the waist, in the crotch, and on the fly.

The lining 18 of the vest may be of the same stiffening fabric, which is preferably used also for the vest pockets. Heretofore it has been customary for the vest lining not to extend to the edge of the vest but to terminate some distance short thereof, the edge ofthe lining being secured to a facing which, in turn, is secured to the edge of the vest. The present structure eliminates this facing, making the stiffening material extend entirely to the edge of the vest, as shown in Figure 5, and securing the edge of this stiffening material directly tothe edge of the vest fabric. Thus the stiffening material will aid in preventing wrinkling of the extreme edges or front portion of the vestas well as of the central portion.

It will now be seen that I employ the same material for linings, pockets, stays, etc. throughout the coat, vest, and trousers of a suit, and that this material, being in the nature of a stiffening fabric, aids greatly in preventing wrinkling of the garments. Heretofore, coat linings, vest linings, trousers linings, and pockets, have all been of different kinds of material. This has made it necessary for clothing manufacturers to carry several kinds of cloth on hand, in addition to the fabrics out of which the garments are made. My invention eliminates these varieties of cloth, substituting a single kind of fabric for all of them, and thus greatly reducing the supplies which a manufacturer must keep on hand and also reducing the amount of waste material. Having all the linings of the same material also adds to the attractive appearance of the garment when the linings happen to be exposed to view, as in a store.

In prior garment structures, linings being made of various cotton fabrics, are not shrunk and must be cut and sewed so as to allow for their shrinking in the finished garment, whereas with my invention the stiffening fabric is put through a shrinking process before using it in the manufacture of garments. The garment fabric being usually re-shrunk, my invention will prevent shrinkage of the linings, pockets, or of any portion of thegarment after. its manufacture and thus tend to retain the entire garment in shape and prevent wrinkling of any part thereof.

It should be noted that my construction has an advantage over the constructions heretofore used, in that there is no layer of material which can curl up during the process of dry cleaning. In the coat-fronts heretofore employed, the conventional layer of canvas, between the lining and the body of the coat, is loose along one edge, and frequently becomes curled or twisted, especially when the garment is dry-cleaned. This causes considerable trouble in pressing the arment. In my construction, no loose layer of material is present, and there is no fabric which can curlu'p or otherwise cause trouble when the coat is being pressed.

While I have disclosed one embodiment of my invention, it is to be understood that the inventive idea may be carried out in a number of ways. sire to be limited to the precise details shown, but this application is intended to cover all modifications thereof falling within the spirit of the invention'or the. scope of the appended claim.

I claim:

In a coat or similar garment, a coat front comprising a felt portion, one side of which is positioned adjacent to the garment fabric, a piece of haircloth positioned adjacent to the other side of the felt portion, and a single layer of stiffening material adjacent to said haircloth, said single layer of stiffening material being so constructed as to function both as a stiffener and also as a lining for the coat.

In witness whereof, I have hereunto signed my name.

NICHOLAS ZUCK.

Therefore, I do not de 

